Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a international community of cities urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city comes as no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always characterized its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their children are reluctant to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to learn these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
